When the Calibre 9S mechanical movement debuted in 1998, it featured an automatic winding mechanism. Three years later, it was followed by a 9S movement with manual winding, a feature that harkened back to the first Grand Seiko from 1960. Manual winding served to deepen the connection between wearer and watch while providing an appealing function for modern enthusiasts with an appreciation for the vintage era of watchmaking.
Today, 25 years later, Grand Seiko pays homage to its first manual-winding 9S model. The SBGW003 of 2001 has always been something of an outlier thanks to its Arabic numerals, a rarity in a Grand Seiko catalog populated by diamond-cut stick indexes. Today, Grand Seiko introduces the new SBGW325, also with Arabic numerals but paired with a deep navy dial colour, inspired by Japan’s traditional indigo-dyeing craftsmanship.
The case design features the same classic contours that defined the SBGW003 and other early manual-winding models such as the SBGW001. While never intended as a recreation of the original Grand Seiko from 1960, the case architecture carried the essence of the watch with its classic round shape. Though seemingly simple, its lugs widen toward their tips, accentuating the sharp ridge lines and Zaratsu polishing that mark this model as an unmistakable Grand Seiko design.
Yet, the dial remains the undeniable focal point thanks to its use of Arabic numerals, which boldly emerge in a sea of blue and stand out with sharp dimensionality. These numerals are not applied to the dial but rather formed from the same material as the dial itself, achieving a stark legibility thanks to their lighter colour. The seconds hand stands out with a gold colouring that matches the GS logo.
Beneath the dial beats the manually wound Calibre 9S64, accurate to +5 to -3 seconds per day while delivering a power reserve of 72 hours, a marked increase from the relatively shorter power reserve of the model from 2001 that inspired this watch. Visible through the sapphire crystal case back, the finely finished movement has an attractive presence all its own.
The new SBGW325 comes with two straps. The blue crocodile strap is hand-dyed with traditional hon-ai indigo-dyeing techniques by skilled craftsmen. Through a meticulous and time-consuming process, it achieves a rich, deep navy hue that complements the dial. A grey calf-leather strap featuring a soft, comfortable fit and a distinctive grained texture is also included.
Available exclusively at the Grand Seiko Boutiques starting in October, the SBGW325 will be limited to 600 pieces worldwide.
